Research into the sources of inspiration for knitwear designers (Eckert, 1997) has shown that the major types of idea source are:
Subsequent research has led to a set of recommendations to enhance the creativity of knitwear designers (Eckert, 1998). This includes; "Designers and technicians increase their vocabulary of design features by studying other garments". This brief report of the use of monofilaments is intended to be an addition to any portfolio of design features.
Intarsia techniques have long been used to create visual interest in knitwear garments. Monofilaments may be used as an alternative to a knitting yarn so that a "cut way" section appears in the garment. This is illustrated in Figures 1 and 2 below.
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| Figure 1: Knitwear Garment with monofilament panels. | Figure 2: Close up of "cut away" section. |
A second garment, illustrating a different visual effect, is shown in Figures 3 and 4.
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| Figure 3: Knitwear Garment with monofilament panels. | Figure 4: Close up of "cut away" section. |
These two garments were both purchased in the US.
Contact with a knitwear designer in Scotland has been useful
for seeing potential for monofilament-based structures in a
variety of fashionable items. Louise Debenham writes:
"I used monofilament in conjunction with a variety of
different yarns including mohair, lycra, lurex, silk and
lambswool to create transparent, lightweight, eye-catching and
decorative fabrics with a delicate appearance. Knitwear or
fashion accessories (e.g. scarves or bags) are the intended end
use for the fabric."
Examples of the suggested use of these fabrics are shown below.
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Some close up images of two of these structures give an insight into the way monofilament yarn has been used.
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| Louise Debenham writes: "The sheer strength of Monofilament (I used 80 denier) enabled it to be successfully knitted on different gauges of knitting machine ranging from 5, 7, 8, 10, 14 and 16. The heavier gauge fabric was much more prone to pulling than the finer 14 gauge fabric. As pulling would be a major impracticality in knitwear, perhaps a finishing technique such as light coating could be applied to prevent this. However, this might mean the loss of other desirable properties in the fabric. Monofilament was successfully knitted in V-bed Dubied, Brother Domestic and 21 gauge Cottons Patent Frame knitting machines. The top and bottom ends had to be linked off to stop the fabric from laddering." Decorative scarf with a monofilament fabric base: |
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Feedback on this design technology is invited. Issues of garment assembly, comfort, durability, snagging, and laundering need to be explored in any product development programme. The North West Advanced Clothing Web is able to assist with the structuring of a product development programme. Monofil Technology Ltd. of Leicester is able to provide technical support regarding the selection of appropriate monofilaments. Louise Debenham is able to provide design collaboration or consultancy in a monofilament in knitwear project.
NW Advanced Clothing Web: David Tyler
Phone: 0161-247-2636. Fax: 0161-247-6354. email: d.tyler@mmu.ac.uk
Monofil Technology Ltd.: Bill Thompson
Phone: 0116-251-7640. Fax: 0116-251-6191
Louise Debenham
email: ldebenham@hotmail.com
References:
Eckert, C.M. 1997. Design inspiration and design performance. In: Proceedings of the 78th World Conference of the Textile INstitute, Thessaloniki, Greece. The Textile Institute.
Eckert, C. and Stacey, M. 1998. Fortune favours only the prepared mind. Creativity and Innovation Management, 7(1).
Prepared by David J. Tyler, NWACW, July 2000, Updated August 2000